Ramps! Do you know them? Sometimes called wild leeks, these early-spring bulbs pack a wallop of spicy-garlicky flavor. Their season is a brief three weeks, but they grow in such profusion that it pays to buy them (or gather, if you’re lucky and know where to look) in a large bunch.
Treat them as you would basil in August: throw the leaves in a food processor with olive oil and salt and you have a basic pistou that will keep in the freezer for months. Good additions are parsley and sorrel. Try it over pasta, on a sandwich, on fish, over asparagus, swirled into a fresh pea soup…. As for the blubs, chop them up and throw them in a stir-fry or in a frittata: anywhere scallions are called for.
1 cup ramp leaves, chopped and packed
½ cup sorrel or parsley, packed
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
¼ teaspoon coarse sea salt
Mix all ingredients in a food processor until chopped to a fine purée. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary.